An in vitro human skin equivalent may be obtained by culturing human keratinocytes on a collagen gel containing fibroblasts. The anchored skin equivalent cultured at the air-liquid interface closely resembles human skin and is acceptable for in vitro percutaneous absorption. However, it is still more permeable than human skin. Since intercellular lipids have been recognized to play an important role in skin permeability, infrared spectroscopy and differential scanning calorimetry were performed on the stratum corneum of bovine or human skin equivalents grown at different days of air-liquid culture. The symmetric and asymmetric CH(2) stretching vibrations suggested that for all days observed, the intercellular lipids were less organized than those in human skin, irrespective of whether bovine or human collagen was used. Different culture conditions were also tested and the medium without serum and no epidermal growth factor at the air-liquid culture showed results significantly more comparable to human skin. Actually, the thermal behavior of in vitro stratum corneum showed transitions at lower temperatures than human skin. The transition around 80 degrees C, in the form of a lipid-protein complex, was absent. These results showed that the structural arrangement of intercellular lipids and their thermodynamic properties hold a crucial role in the barrier function of the stratum corneum.